They always dressed identically: nice jackets, button-front shirts. A couple of times, I tried to strike up a conversation, but the men ignored me. They never so much as glanced at the girls. Whenever we crossed paths—old twins, young twins; twins on foot, twins on wheels—I wondered how my kids were going to turn out after this odd childhood on the Nile. The island is situated in the heart of the city, but the river creates a powerful sense of separation. Even on days of major demonstrations, it was easy to forget that Tahrir was only a mile and a half away.
I often saw Zamalek residents watching the revolution on television, as if the images had been beamed in from some distant land.
Most people had no interest in getting involved. Sayyid told me cautionary tales about certain figures, like the one-eyed doorman. During a demonstration, the doorman walked to a street near Tahrir, where he decided to watch from an overpass. That was a mistake: when Egyptian police disperse crowds, they often fire their shotguns into the air. The doorman got hit with bird shot and lost his eye, and that was the last time he went to a protest. Morsi fought fiercely whenever the Copt clipped his claws. Due to the heavy smell of tear gas in Zamalek at the moment.
We think it is safer for the children not to come to school today. We are terribly sorry for the very short notice, but it is strictly out of our hands. I started stashing large amounts of cash around the apartment. If things got violent, I had plans for an emergency departure: what we would pack, how we would get to the airport. By now, the protests were almost constant, and we lost electricity several times a day. The government announced a policy of dimming the lights in the airport; there were hardly any tourists.
Ancient Egyptian Symbolism Explained, on our Guided Museum Tours
Whenever I returned from a trip, I touched down in the Morsi-era twilight zone: darkened hallways, frozen escalators. It is strictly out of our hands. One morning, I went to renew our visas at Mogamma, the government building beside Tahrir. I handed our applications to an official. This was what mattered at such a time? Even more absurd was how pleased I felt: I was so happy that we had got married!
I returned to Zamalek and retrieved the Ouray County license. The official seemed just as pleased as me; the visas were processed without a hitch. When the coup finally came, in July, , none of my planning mattered. General Abdel Fattah El-Sisi, the Minister of Defense, issued a statement that gave Morsi forty-eight hours to respond to the demands of protesters.
Morsi had a reputation for stubbornness, and it seemed impossible that he would negotiate. On the day that everybody knew would be the last of the Morsi Presidency, Atiyat arrived with her fingernails painted in the colors of the Egyptian flag. She took out some red, black, and yellow crayons, and she instructed the twins in the production of little flags. Should my three-year-olds be celebrating a military coup in advance? What if things get violent?
We decided that, in the event of gunfire, the safest place in the apartment was the interior hallway. That was the plan: shut the doors, stay close to the floor. There was always a plan. Old plans had a way of becoming irrelevant, but new plans were easy to make, and Leslie and I often had other versions of this conversation. Once, the nursery school cancelled class because the police found a terrorist dummy bomb a block away. Another time, an ISIS -affiliated group kidnapped a foreigner on the outskirts of Cairo and beheaded him. Before moving to Egypt, I had imagined that we would establish clear protocols: if x happens, then we will respond by doing y.
Book Review: Short stories that capture the essence of bustling Cairo
This was how embassies operated; during the summer of the coup, the American Embassy in Cairo evacuated all nonessential personnel. But once we were living in the city, without a connection to any institution, I realized that we were more likely to respond as Cairenes did, with flexibility and rationalization. People talked about the events calmly, and they maintained a sense of distance— it is strictly out of our hands. They told jokes. They focussed on the little things they could control.
Even a newcomer learned to normalize almost any situation. It was a dummy bomb, not a real bomb. The kidnapped foreigner was an oil worker, not a journalist. It happened only once. And the difficulties of everyday life kept people occupied. Things went wrong all the time, and usually it had nothing to do with politics. Our Arabic teacher died suddenly, because of poor medical care. The shopkeeper who chatted with the girls was shot and killed near his home, reportedly after trying to mediate some dispute. One day not long after the coup, the elderly cat carer on the fourth floor put out some food.
So she poked her head through a gap in the spiderweb gate, in order to look down through the elevator shaft. Above her, on one of the upper levels, the Byzantine box was motionless. Afterward, the police interrogated the doorman, and he either quit or was fired. The landlady also had wire screens installed behind the spiderweb gates.
On the fourth floor, the family of the elderly woman played recorded Quranic chants for months, to put her soul at peace. Leslie and I told Atiyat and our other sitters never to allow the twins to go on the landing unattended. During this time of violent headlines, one of the things that scared me most was the elevator outside my front door. The morning after he disappeared, five ugly strays were lounging in the sun on our balcony.
I wondered if Morsi had finally lost a fight, and I tossed water at the strays until they left. The girls were upset. By now, they were big enough so that Morsi tolerated their presence; occasionally, he even showed affection. I was becoming another Zamalek eccentric, the foreigner who wandered the island at night, calling out for the deposed President.
Around this time, Leslie and I realized that we should stop discussing politics in front of the girls. During one of our trips to see family in the U. But his name is Sisi. After the great age of pyramid-building ended, in the twenty-fifth century B. Pepi II ran the country into the ground. Someday, I thought, historians would view our current age as another example of bad-cat politics, crude and fable-like. Once upon a time, Morsi was in power, then Sisi drove him out like a stray in the garden. Then more than a thousand protesters were massacred in a brutal crackdown.
Then Morsi was placed inside a cage in a courtroom, where he was tried for murder and treason. Could anybody blame a child for confusing these political figures with animals? From our garden, I looked up and realized that he was stranded on an upper balcony. He had climbed there on the limb of a tree.
Leslie went up to the apartment.
Cairo: Latest News, Top Stories & Analysis - POLITICO
The woman who lived there refused to open the door, and she stood silently on the other side while Leslie introduced herself. Then the woman finally spoke. She threatened to call the police. He said that the woman was probably afraid of the cat. He made an Egyptian gesture, tapping his head, rolling his eyes, and whistling: crazy. The landlady also had no interest in dealing with the recluse.
It was after 9 P. The woman opened the door partway. She pointed at me.
The place was cleaner than I expected. The woman was nice-looking, and she wore an elaborate dressing gown that made me think of Miss Havisham.